How to Install Direct Stick Engineered Timber Flooring (Complete Australian Guide 2026)
- Imperial Flooring Australia
- 4 days ago
- 5 min read
Updated: 12 hours ago
Installing engineered timber flooring using the direct stick (glue-down) method is widely regarded as the premium installation technique for Australian homes. By bonding each board directly to the subfloor with a high-quality MS polymer adhesive, you'll achieve a floor that feels solid underfoot, minimises movement, reduces hollow sound and delivers exceptional long-term performance.
Whether you're a professional installer, builder or experienced DIY renovator, this guide explains the complete installation process used by Imperial Flooring Australia®.
What is Direct Stick Engineered Timber Flooring?
Direct stick (also known as glue-down installation) involves permanently adhering engineered timber flooring directly onto a prepared subfloor using a premium timber flooring adhesive.
Unlike floating floors, there is no acoustic underlay beneath the flooring. Instead, every plank is fully supported by the adhesive bed, creating a firmer, quieter and more stable floor.
This installation method is recommended for:
New homes
Luxury renovations
Concrete slabs
Apartment developments
Architectural homes
Commercial projects
Wide plank engineered timber
Herringbone flooring
Chevron flooring
Why Choose Direct Stick Installation?
Compared to floating floors, direct stick installation provides several advantages.
✔ More solid feel underfoot
✔ Less movement between boards
✔ Reduced hollow sound
✔ Better acoustic performance
✔ Ideal for premium homes
✔ Suitable for heavy traffic
✔ Greater long-term stability
It is also the required installation method for Herringbone and Chevron engineered flooring.
Tools & Materials Required
Before starting, prepare everything you'll need.
Flooring
Engineered Timber Flooring
Herringbone Parquetry
Chevron Parquetry
Adhesives
Bostik Ultraset HP MS Polymer Adhesive
Wakol PU280 Moisture Barrier (where required)
Tools
4.8mm V-notch trowel
Tape measure
Chalk line or laser
Rubber mallet
Imperial Pull bar
Tapping block
Multi-tool or jamb saw
Table saw or mitre saw
Vacuum
Spacers
Cleaning wipes
Step 1 – Prepare the Subfloor
A successful installation always begins with proper subfloor preparation.
The surface must be:
Clean
Dry
Structurally sound
Free from dust
Free from paint
Free from contaminants
Flat to Australian Standards
The maximum deviation permitted is:
3mm over a 3-metre straight edge.
Any high spots should be mechanically ground, while low areas should be corrected using an approved self-levelling compound.
Never install engineered timber over an uneven subfloor.
Step 2 – Test Moisture Levels
Moisture is one of the leading causes of timber flooring failure. Before installation, test the concrete slab if any moisture relating issues are a concern or apply a premium moisture barrier such as Wakol PU280 before spreading adhesive if subfloor conditions are all normal. Never stick directly to a concrete slab without applying a moisture barrier system.
Step 3 – Undercut Door Frames
Place a flooring plank upside down against the architrave or door jamb.
Use a multi-tool or jamb saw to trim the frame so the flooring slides neatly underneath for a professional finish.
Step 4 – Establish Your Starting Line
Choose the straightest wall in the room.
Using a laser or chalk line, mark a perfectly straight reference line.
This first row becomes the anchor for the remainder of the installation, so accuracy is critical.
Allow an expansion gap of approximately 8–10mm around the room perimeter.
Step 5 – Apply Adhesive
Using the manufacturer's recommended V-notch trowel, spread the adhesive evenly while holding the trowel at approximately 45 degrees.
Only spread enough adhesive that can be covered within the adhesive's open working time.
Never:
Spread adhesive across the whole room
Apply glue in beads
Leave dry patches
Use water-based adhesives
Premium MS polymer timber flooring adhesives provide superior bond strength and flexibility.
Step 6 – Install the First Row
Lay the first row perfectly straight.
Position the tongue facing away from the starting wall.
Install spacers to maintain the expansion gap.
Double-check alignment before continuing, as every remaining row depends on this first row.
Step 7 – Continue Installing
Insert each board into the previous plank before lowering it into the adhesive.
Use a tapping block where necessary.
Avoid striking boards directly with a hammer.
Randomise board lengths by opening multiple packs during installation to create a natural appearance.
Where possible, avoid end joints shorter than approximately 450mm.
Step 8 – Maintain Full Adhesive Transfer
Each board should achieve full contact with the adhesive.
Walk over newly installed sections using clean rubber-soled shoes or use a flooring roller if specified by the adhesive manufacturer.
Good adhesive transfer helps prevent movement and future squeaks.
Immediately remove excess adhesive using approved cleaning wipes.
Step 9 – Allow the Floor to Cure
Do not walk on the flooring until the adhesive has fully cured.
Most premium MS polymer adhesives require approximately 12–24 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Always follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions.
Avoid moving furniture back onto the floor until curing is complete.
Step 10 – Complete the Finishing Work
Once the adhesive has cured:
Remove spacers
Install skirting boards or scotia
Fill any minor gaps using a colour-matched timber filler (if required)
Clean the floor using products recommended for engineered timber
Never fix skirting boards through the flooring. They should always be attached to the wall to allow natural expansion.
Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced installers can make mistakes.
Avoid these common issues:
Installing over an uneven subfloor
Skipping moisture testing
Using incorrect adhesives
Not maintaining expansion gaps
Spreading too much adhesive
Walking on the floor before curing
Failing to randomise boards
Installing over wet concrete
Using water-based glue
Fixing skirting boards through the flooring
Frequently Asked Questions
Can engineered timber flooring be glued directly to concrete?
Yes. Provided the concrete is clean, dry, flat and moisture compliant, direct stick installation is the preferred method.
Do I need a moisture barrier?
Ground-level concrete slabs generally require an approved moisture barrier where moisture testing indicates it is necessary or where specified by the flooring system. Always follow the manufacturer's installation requirements.
Is direct stick better than floating?
For premium residential projects, direct stick installation generally provides a firmer feel underfoot, improved stability and reduced hollow sound compared with floating floors.
Can Herringbone flooring be installed as a floating floor?
No. Herringbone and Chevron engineered flooring must be installed using the direct stick (full glue-down) method.
How much extra flooring should I order?
Imperial Flooring Australia® recommends:
10% extra for straight plank flooring
15–20% extra for Herringbone and Chevron flooring to allow for cuts, waste and pattern alignment.
Final Thoughts
A correctly installed direct stick engineered timber floor delivers exceptional stability, premium acoustics and a luxurious feel that can enhance any home. By following best-practice installation methods, using the correct adhesives and preparing the subfloor properly, you'll maximise both the appearance and lifespan of your flooring.
Whether you're installing wide-plank European Oak, Herringbone or Chevron parquetry, taking the time to do the job correctly will ensure a beautiful, long-lasting result.
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